| Dallas Restaurant Reviews |
| Neighborhood Services 5027 West Lovers Lane, Dallas, Tx 214-350-5027 |
Dallas Restaurant Review:
Chef/owner Nick Badovinus (who launched several restaurants with former partner Tristan
Simon) is flying solo now, and the whiz kid of the Knox-Henderson restaurant empire knows
what he’s doing.
SETTING – A small, nondescript storefront in a transitional area where ritzy University
Park politely rubs elbows with a faded 1940’s commercial strip. The tiny sign next to the
front door is not really visible from the street. But then, some of Badovinus’ previous
affiliations have been so avant-garde that they didn’t even have a sign. So just look for the
orange cones of the valet station on Lover’s Lane.
APPETIZERS – The menu continually evolves, but at the moment, some top draws are the
Fried Asparagus with Roasted Lemon & Dill Dressing, the lightly-cheesy Rock Shrimp
Fritters, and the popular Roasted Green Chile and Jonah Crab Dip (which I haven’t tried). My
own favorite is the Bar Harbor Mussels with Cured Chorizo, served in a broth that is the
best I’ve ever had. Note that most of the appetizers are large portions, meant to be shared.
ENTREES – This is a neighborhood café on steroids – upscaled, New American “comfort food”
taken to the max. The Spareribs with Ancho Barbeque Glaze are decadently juicy and easily
fall off the bone. The Seared Sea Scallops with Creamy Crabmeat Pearl Couscous are yummy,
and the legendary London Broil Flat Iron Steak with Voodoo Peppercorn Sauce is tough to
pass. For those counting calories, all I can say is, hey, sometimes you just have to splurge.
Prices $17-$30.
WINE – They have an extensive list of very good wines in the $30-$60 range which are sold
by both the bottle and the glass. There are many more, higher priced. And the spacious bar
at the front door is a plus, considering that Neighborhood Services doesn’t take
reservations.
AMBIANCE – The place is busy and the crowd is dressy-casual, sprinkled with see-and-be-
seen types. The eclectic décor ranges from slightly edgy to touches of home.
RESERVATIONS – Not accepted, and I’m not big on waiting, but here if it takes 20 minutes
to get a table, I don’t mind. And if you call them just before you leave, they’ll put your name
on the list.
NORTH DALLAS LOCATION – There’s a sister restaurant now at Preston and Royal Lane –
the NHS Bar & Grill, which has its own equally-good menu with a slightly lighter touch. Check
out the Neighborhood Services web site for more information.
BOTTOM LINE – If you want exotic “comfort food” like you’ve never had it before,
Neighborhood Services is the place.
Chef/owner Nick Badovinus (who launched several restaurants with former partner Tristan
Simon) is flying solo now, and the whiz kid of the Knox-Henderson restaurant empire knows
what he’s doing.
SETTING – A small, nondescript storefront in a transitional area where ritzy University
Park politely rubs elbows with a faded 1940’s commercial strip. The tiny sign next to the
front door is not really visible from the street. But then, some of Badovinus’ previous
affiliations have been so avant-garde that they didn’t even have a sign. So just look for the
orange cones of the valet station on Lover’s Lane.
APPETIZERS – The menu continually evolves, but at the moment, some top draws are the
Fried Asparagus with Roasted Lemon & Dill Dressing, the lightly-cheesy Rock Shrimp
Fritters, and the popular Roasted Green Chile and Jonah Crab Dip (which I haven’t tried). My
own favorite is the Bar Harbor Mussels with Cured Chorizo, served in a broth that is the
best I’ve ever had. Note that most of the appetizers are large portions, meant to be shared.
ENTREES – This is a neighborhood café on steroids – upscaled, New American “comfort food”
taken to the max. The Spareribs with Ancho Barbeque Glaze are decadently juicy and easily
fall off the bone. The Seared Sea Scallops with Creamy Crabmeat Pearl Couscous are yummy,
and the legendary London Broil Flat Iron Steak with Voodoo Peppercorn Sauce is tough to
pass. For those counting calories, all I can say is, hey, sometimes you just have to splurge.
Prices $17-$30.
WINE – They have an extensive list of very good wines in the $30-$60 range which are sold
by both the bottle and the glass. There are many more, higher priced. And the spacious bar
at the front door is a plus, considering that Neighborhood Services doesn’t take
reservations.
AMBIANCE – The place is busy and the crowd is dressy-casual, sprinkled with see-and-be-
seen types. The eclectic décor ranges from slightly edgy to touches of home.
RESERVATIONS – Not accepted, and I’m not big on waiting, but here if it takes 20 minutes
to get a table, I don’t mind. And if you call them just before you leave, they’ll put your name
on the list.
NORTH DALLAS LOCATION – There’s a sister restaurant now at Preston and Royal Lane –
the NHS Bar & Grill, which has its own equally-good menu with a slightly lighter touch. Check
out the Neighborhood Services web site for more information.
BOTTOM LINE – If you want exotic “comfort food” like you’ve never had it before,
Neighborhood Services is the place.
| The North Dallas location, the Southeast corner of Preston Road @ Royal Lane |